
The basic measurements of electricity are:
VOLTS
Voltage is the difference in electrical potential between two
points, or the amount of "push" that makes the electrons flow.
It's also called the "electromotive force" (EMF). It's like the
pressure that forces compressed air through a hose, but instead
of being measured in pounds per square inch, voltage is measured
in units called "volts."
AMPS
Current is the amount or volume of electrons that flow through a
conductor or a circuit. It is a measure of volume, and is
specified in units called "amperes" or "amps" for short. The
analogy with an air hose would be the number of cubic feet per
minute of air passing through the hose. One amp is equal to 6.3
million trillion electrons (6.3 with 18 zeros after it) flowing
past a point in one second! That's a lot of electrons, but a
relatively small current in many automotive circuits. A starter,
for example, can draw several hundred amps when cranking the
engine.
OHMS
Resistance is the opposition to the flow of current, or the
restriction that impedes the flow of electrons. Resistance is
measured in units called "ohms." The flow of air though a hose
can be reduced by pinching it, by reducing the diameter of the
hose or by holding your finger over the outlet. Likewise,
current flow through a wire can be slowed or controlled by adding
resistance.
OHM'S LAW
One volt equals the amount of force needed to push a one amp
current through a circuit with a resistance of one ohm. They
call this "Ohm's Law." It can be expressed in various ways:
AMPS = VOLTS\OHMS (Volts divided by Ohms)
OHMS = VOLTS\AMPS (Volts divided by Amps)
VOLTS = AMPS x OHMS (Amps times Ohms)
Understanding Ohm's Law and the relationships between volts,
ohms and amps is the key to understanding electrical currents and
circuits. Ohm's Law explains why high resistance in a circuit
chokes off the current and causes a voltage drop. It also
explains why an electrical short can cause a wire to rapidly
overheat and burn because of a runaway current.
VOLTAGE DROP
A voltage drop occurs when current flows through a component
in a circuit. The resistance created by the device produces a
corresponding drop in voltage which can be calculated using Ohm's
Law if you know the resistance of the component and current flow.
VOLTAGE DROP = RESISTANCE x CURRENT
In the shop environment, voltage drop is measured with a
voltmeter. The voltmeter's leads are connected on either side of
the circuit component or connection that's being tested. If a
connection is loose or corroded, it will create resistance in the
circuit and restrict the flow of current causing an excessive
voltage drop. As a rule of thumb, a voltage drop of more than
one tenth volt (0.1v) across any connection means trouble.
Measuring voltage drop is an effective means of quickly
pinpointing circuit problems such as loose or corroded
connectors, wires, switches, etc. because it doesn't require you
to disassemble anything prior to testing.
TYPES OF CURRENT IN A CIRCUIT
Most automotive electrical circuits operate on Direct Current
(DC). In a DC circuit, the polarity of the voltage and current
do not change -- as opposed to Alternating Current (AC) circuits
where they do.
In a DC circuit, positive (+) is always positive, and
negative (-) is always negative. Positive or "hot" wires may be
(but not always) color coded red, while negative or "ground"
wires may be coded black (remember that electrons actually flow
from negative to positive!).
All modern automotive electrical circuits are "negative
ground" meaning the body is connected to the battery's negative
terminal. In some antique vehicles and older British cars, the
body is connected to the positive battery cable creating a
"positive ground" electrical system.
DC current is used to drive the starter, solenoids, fuel
injectors, relays, idle speed control motor, fuel pump and most
other electrical and electronic components on the vehicle. Most
sensors also operate on direct current.
The alternator, however, is an exception. It uses direct
current to produce an alternating current charging voltage. But
before the alternating current leaves the alternator, it is
converted back to direct current again by the alternator's
diodes.
In an AC circuit, voltage and current do not remain constant.
An AC current reverses direction and goes from positive to
negative and back to positive again in a cyclic fashion. If an
AC current is plotted on a graph or viewed on an oscilloscope, it
forms a "sine wave" pattern (a DC current would form a straight
line). The AC wave starts at zero volts, increases to its
maximum positive value, then falls back to zero and reverses to
its maximum negative value.
Think of the difference this way: a DC current flows one-way
(negative to positive) while an AC current surges back and forth.
ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS
An electrical circuit is basically a route or path through
which electrons flow. As we said earlier, it must form a
complete loop so the current will continue to flow. The
electrons need a return path back to their source (the battery or
alternator) otherwise they have no place to go. There are
essentially two kinds of electrical circuits:
SERIES CIRCUITS
A "series" circuit is one in which all the circuit elements are
connected end-to-end in chain-like fashion. The current has only
one path to follow so the amount of current passing through it
will be the same throughout. The total resistance in a series
circuit is equal to the sum of the individual resistances within
each circuit element. If one element in a series circuit goes
bad, continuity will be broken and the entire circuit will go
dead.
PARALLEL CIRCUITS
A "parallel" circuit is one in which circuit elements are
connected next to or parallel to one another. This creates
multiple branches or pathways through which current can flow.
The resistance in any given branch will determine the voltage
drop and current flow through that branch and that branch alone.
One of the advantages of a parallel circuit is that the various
segments or pathways of the circuit can operate independently of
one another. If one element goes open (breaks continuity), it
won't disrupt the function of the other.
OPENS, GROUNDS & SHORTS
Since all electrical circuits require a continuous path for
current to flow, most automotive electrical systems use the steel
body for the "ground" path. The wiring makes up the other half
of the circuit. The advantage of this approach is that it
eliminates the need for two wires to many components. A parking
light, for example, needs only one wire because it is grounded to
the body.
On all modern vehicles, the body is connected to the negative
battery terminal while the wiring is connected through the
ignition switch and fuse box to the positive terminal. This is
called a "negative ground" electrical system. In some antique
vehicles and older British cars, the positive battery cable was
connected to the body, creating a "positive ground" electrical
system.
Although we usually think current flows through the positive
"hot" wire to the various accessories and circuits in the car and
then returns through the body ground back to the battery, the
opposite is actually the case. Electric current flows from
negative to positive so the electrons leave the battery through
the negative terminal, travel through the body to the various
circuits, and return to the battery through the so-called "hot"
wires in the electrical system.
It may sound confusing, but a "hot" wire in a negative ground
electrical system is really a return wire that completes a
circuit. A "hot" wire always sparks when grounded because it
completes a direct path back to the battery. It will also show
battery voltage when checked with a grounded voltmeter.
When a circuit is not complete (no continuity), it is said to
be "open." Electricity obviously can't flow through an open
circuit because there's no return path back to the power source.
An open can be created intentionally by using a switch, circuit
breaker or relay to turn a circuit off, or it may be
unintentional due to a broken wire, or a loose or corroded
connection.
A "short" occurs when a portion of an electrical circuit is
bypassed unintentionally. It's called a short because it creates
a shorter return path for the current to follow. An example of a
short would be a break in the insulation on a wire touching
metal.
When a short occurs, a couple of things happen. The first is
that electricity always prefers the path of least resistance --
which is usually via the short rather than through the electrical
circuit. The absence of resistance allows a runaway current that
can quickly overheat and melt the wire, possibly starting a fire.
To protect the vehicle against such mishaps, various types of
protection devices are used to protect electrical circuits.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION
One of several safety devices may be used to protect an
electrical circuit from shorts or overloads:
A "fuse" is the most simple form of protection that's often used.
A fuse contains a piece of wire that melts at low temperature.
When the flow of current through a circuit approaches the limit
of the fuse the fuse wire melts. This opens the circuit and
stops the flow of electricity. The amp rating of any given fuse
is determined by the vehicle manufacturer according to the size
of wiring used and the electrical loads the circuit is designed
to handle. Fuses are usually located in a central fuse box
although in-line fuses may be used to protect certain accessories
that have been added on.
A "fusible link" is a length of special wire that is designed to
melt (like a fuse) when a circuit is overloaded. Fusible links
are sometimes used in ignition circuits and other circuits that
carry high amperage. The location of a fusible link will be
specified in a vehicle's wiring diagram. You can tell if a
fusible link has burned out by noting the condition of the
insulating tape wrapped around it. If the tape appears to be
blistered, the wire inside has burned out. Many late model
import as well as domestic cars have gotten away from fusible
links and gone to high current fuses in a centrally located
"power distribution center" (usually separate from the fuse
panel).
The third form of current overload protection is a "circuit
breaker." A bimetallic switch is used to break the circuit when
an overload occurs. When the amount of current flowing through
the circuit exceeds the built-in limit of the circuit breaker,
the bimetallic switch heats up and opens the contact points.
Once the current stops, the circuit breaker begins to cool off
and eventually recloses. If the opening of the circuit breaker
was caused by a temporary overload, the circuit will resume
functioning normally. But if the overload persists, the circuit
breaker will continue to cycle on and off. Circuit breakers are
often used on high amp load circuits such as the headlights and
air conditioner.
RELAYS
A relay is nothing more than a switch in a box that's used to
turn a circuit on or off. When voltage is supplied to the relay,
the relay closes (or opens) and turns on (or off) whatever it is
connected to.
For example, when the ignition key is turned on, power may be
routed to the fuel pump relay. The ignition circuit is the
control circuit in this case. The voltage from the ignition
circuit flows through a small coil (actually an electromagnet)
inside the relay. The magnetic field created by the coil pulls a
set of contact points shut which completes the main relay circuit
and turns the fuel pump on. When the key is turned off, the
relay points reopen breaking the circuit to the pump which shuts
the pump off.
Why use a relay to turn a circuit on and off? Because relays
are usually designed to handle higher current loads. Thus, a
relatively small control current can be used to energize a relay
that in turn provides a much higher current to the component it
controls.
Relays can be checked by applying voltage directly to the
input terminals. If the relay is good, it will click and close
the circuit. If it's no good, it won't click and close the
circuit, or if it does there's too much resistance in the contact
points to allow the circuit to function properly. Relays usually
quit working because the wiring connectors to the coil break or
the contact points wear out.
Relays are used for electric fuel pumps, the horn, the
headlights, the heater blower motor, electric cooling fans, the
A/C compressor clutch, electric rear window defrosters, power
seats, power windows, you-name-it.
Here's a rule that makes no sense but is a fact of life
anyway: Relays are seldom located anywhere near the device they
operate. They're scattered throughout the vehicle and may be
found anywhere under the hood, under the dash, under a seat, in
the trunk or behind a kick panel. So to find out where a vehicle
manufacturer hid a particular relay for a given circuit or
accessory, it's almost always necessary to look up the relay's
location on an electrical wiring diagram. The only exception is
usually the horn relay which is almost always found in the main
fuse box. Most relays are not identified with anything other
than an OEM part number, so it's important to make sure your
customer gets the correct replacement relay for the application.
SOLENOIDS
Like relays, solenoids are also switches in a box. They can
be used for a variety of purposes. Some solenoids (like the
starter solenoid) are used to operate an electrical circuit like
a relay. Some (like ported vacuum switches for EGR valves or the
charcoal canister purge valve) are used to open or block vacuum
circuits. Some (like those in antilock brake systems or
electronically controlled automatic transmissions) are used to
open or block hydraulic circuits. Others (such as mixture control
solenoids in electronic carburetors) are used to open and close
fuel metering circuits.
A fuel injector, for example is nothing more than a solenoid
connected to a fuel nozzle. When the solenoid is energized, it
opens and allows pressurized fuel to spray out the nozzle.
Like relays, solenoids contain an electromagnetic coil.
Except for starter solenoids, which are essentially relays, most
solenoids move a "pole piece" when energized instead of closing a
set of contact points. The pole piece is nothing more than a
small piece of iron that moves when pulled upon by a magnetic
field. When the solenoid is energized, it pulls the pole piece
up. When the solenoid's control voltage is cut, the
spring-loaded pole piece snaps back to its original rest
position.
With a fuel injector, the pole piece is connected to the
pintle valve that opens the injector nozzle. With a ported
vacuum switch, the pole piece uncovers or blocks vacuum
passageways as it moves up and down.
The neat thing about solenoids is that they can be cycled on
and off very rapidly. The buzzing that a fuel injector makes is
nothing more than the rapid cycling of the solenoid and pintle
valve. With antilock brake systems, the ABS solenoids that
alternately hold, release and reapply brake pressure in the brake
lines can cycle on and off 4 to 10 times a second depending on
the system.
Another neat thing about solenoids is that the pole piece
doesn't necessarily have to move all the way from its rest
position to a fully retracted position. By varying the voltage
to the solenoid, the pole piece can be slid partially open. This
ability enables a solenoid to provide multiple operating
positions rather than just on or off. Bosch, for example, uses a
three-position solenoid in its antilock brake systems.
How do you check a solenoid? Usually by measuring its
resistance with an ohmmeter. If the reading isn't within specs,
the solenoid coil is either open or shorted. You can also listen
for a click when the solenoid is energized. No click or movement
means it needs to be replaced.
VOLTAGE REQUIREMENTS
Every electrical device requires a minimum voltage to
operate. A light bulb will glow with reduced brilliance as the
voltage drops. But for some components there is a threshold
voltage below which it won't operate at all. A starter motor,
for example, will crank the engine more slowly if battery voltage
is low but may not crank it at all if the voltage is below a
certain threshold (usually less than 10 volts). Minimum
threshold voltage is especially critical for such components as
solenoids (which need a certain amount of voltage to overcome
spring resistance), relays, timers, buzzers, horns, fuel
injectors (which are solenoids, too) and most electronics (the
ignition module, engine computer, ABS control module, radio,
etc.).
Checking the load point for full battery voltage will tell
you whether or not sufficient voltage is getting through, and to
do that a voltmeter is necessary. The meter should read within
one volt of battery voltage if the circuit's okay.
Low circuit voltage is typically caused by excessive
resistance at some point in the circuit. Usually this means a
weak or corroded connector, a faulty switch, relay or poor
ground. To find the point of high resistance, the voltmeter is
used to do a "voltage drop test" at various points throughout
the circuit. If the voltmeter shows a drop of more than a 0.1
volts across any connector, switch or ground contact, it means
trouble.
Sometimes undersized wiring can cause low voltage. If
rewiring a circuit or adding an accessory (driving lights, a
killer stereo system, a rear window defogger, etc.), the wires
must be heavy enough to carry the load. The higher the amp load
in the circuit, the larger the required gauge size for the
wiring. The following list includes recommended wire gauge
sizes:
Wire size-----Amp Capacity
18------------6
16------------8
14------------15
12------------20
10------------30
8 ------------40
6 ------------50
CONTINUITY
Every electrical circuit requires a complete circuit to
operate. Voltage to the load won't do any good unless there is
also a complete ground path to the battery. The ground path in
the case of all metal bodied cars is the body itself. In plastic
bodies cars, a separate ground wire is needed to link the load to
the chassis. In either case, a poor ground connection has the
same effect as an open switch. The circuit isn't complete so
current doesn't flow.
To check wiring continuity, all that's needed is an ohmmeter
or a self-powered test light. An ohmmeter is probably the better
of the two because it displays the exact amount of resistance
between any two test points. A test light, on the other hand,
will glow when there's continuity but the intensity of the bulb
may vary depending on the amount of resistance in the circuit. A
trained eye can usually detect the difference but an ohmmeter is
more exact.
An ohmmeter should never be used to check resistance in a
"live" circuit. Doing so can damage the ohmmeter. Before
testing the circuit's resistance or continuity, therefore, the
circuit should be isolated by disconnecting it from its power
source. Pulling the circuit's fuse will usually do the trick.
Ohmmeters are great for measuring resistance and checking
continuity in normal electrical circuits but care must be used
when working on electronic components. An ohmmeter works by
applying a small voltage through its test leads, and this voltage
can be enough to damage sensitive electronic components. Special
high impedance 10 megohm meters are required for
electronics testing, and even then caution must be used to avoid
probing certain items directly such as control modules.
Tracing wires is an essential element of checking continuity
and finding wiring problems, but isn't as easy as it looks
because a circuit wire will sometimes change color after passing
through a connector, switch or relay. That's why technicians
need detailed wiring diagrams when doing electrical work.
Working without a wiring diagram is like working in the dark.
WIRING REPAIRS
Most wiring problems occur at harness connectors and
terminals because these components are the point where the wiring
is most vulnerable to environmental contamination, vibration and
mechanical stress. Wiring connectors and terminals sometimes
work loose or are damaged by careless handling, but rust and
corrosion are usually the main culprits.
Though it is sometimes possible to clean a dirty wiring
connector, the best cure is often replacement. Once the
protective plating on the metal has been penetrated by corrosion,
no amount of cleaning can fully restore it. Coating it with
protective dielectric grease can help keep moisture out, but
eventually corrosion will penetrate the connector and disrupt the
circuit.
Damaged wiring is less common, but vibration, heat and
physical abuse can damage insulation and break wires. If a
circuit has shorted out, the wiring should be carefully inspected
for heat damage (discolored, melted or burned insulation). If
damaged, it must be replaced.
When replacing corroded connectors or damaged wiring, various
methods may be used. Crimp connectors are a quick way to join
wires. Soldering takes time and a certain amount of skill, but
provides the best electrical path. Electrical tape or heat
shrink tubing must always be used around wiring repairs to keep
the electrons where they belong.